Tags
Amar shonar Bangla, Calcutta, Indian Archeological Museum, Kolkata, Mamiyar Veedu, Mark Twain, posto, Pujo, Shoshur Badi, Tagore, Travel Writing
“The average man is profoundly ignorant of countries that lie remote from his own. When they are mentioned in his presence one or two facts and maybe a couple of names rise like torches in his mind, lighting up an inch or two of it and leaving the rest all dark.” – this is according to Mark Twain. I agree to certain extent. Talk of India, Mark Twain’s average man would think of Kamasutra and tigers; I don’t know why tigers of all animals; some of my friends in the US of A made their western friends believe that tigers are domesticated in Indian villages, and obviously making them believe wasn’t difficult. Mark Twain’s observation holds true not just for countries that lie remote but for cities as well. For example mention of Bangalore to the average man he might think of the IT industry and jackass auto drivers may be, and that is all. Calcutta paints different picture to different people. To me, well, I will not tell it all; 1. because I married a girl from there, and 2. I want to be married to this girl life long – at least that’s the hope. According to Twain in his book “Following the Equator”, the mention of Calcutta infallibly brings up the Black Hole, which many of us (including proud people of Kolkata) do not know of. To many of us now, this time, in India (I include Indians working abroad as well), Kolkata means: a lot of people (I mean the crowd), Victoria Memorial, Eden Gardens, Dada (of Cricket), Mother Teresa, Tagore, Bose, rasogolla (pronounced Roshogolla, don’t ask me why), hot and humid weather, brothels and many more.
After three visits to the city and with considerable time spent on the streets of Kolkata, to me the city is very special and unique. The city that has a place for you, no matter what you do and who you are. Unlike Bangalore, in Kolkata you are never away from reality. A place like Bangalore can often be disillusioning; you hardly interact with the locals, few local markets, more malls and departmental stores, a.c. buildings, no sweat, almost everything is a call away. And we here in Bangalore try to chase the ‘American Dream’ which is actually an illusion even in America. In Kolkata you would not get anything without sweating for it (literally and figuratively), you stay up close with the reality. Kolkata is the one of the few places where 50 paisa is still very much in use- five rupee and fifty paisa for a 2 km rickshaw drop, chai is one rupee and fifty paisa. In Bangalore fifty paisa suddenly comes to use only because the price of Wills Milds Cigarette is now 5.50 and not 5, otherwise fifty paisa is gone out of use long ago.
Food:
Ah!!! Talking of food, any place that has Bengal influence of cooking is God’s own kitchen. I have never tasted anything like Kolkata’s street food. Just the sounds of the food names are appetizing – kobirajee, egg devil, mach bhaja, macher jhol ,posto; just tell the names of the food that you get in Kolkata, I will eat anything that you offer… anything. The best time to taste Kolkata street food is during Pujo, which is like religious equivalent of Woodstock in terms of crowd, and a must-see.
There is an eighty year old restaurant/cake shop by the name ‘Flurys’ which is famous for it’s cakes and pastries – one of the best in India.
Music and literature:
Imagine a family. A father, mother, a college going kid, grandmother, grandfather, and some uncles and aunts if you want to add more complications. Given the time that we live in, what can be the common topic for a general discussion, you know, just a topic to kill some time- yes, I just didn’t think it was impossible; I thought it was ridiculous… until I visited Kolkata. Music and books are important part of Kolkata’s culture. Everybody seems to know music and everyone in the family discusses literature. The Bengali literature is rich, new and upcoming authors are widely read and encouraged. Rabindra Sangeet, which is Tagore’s poetry and music combined, is a common place thing. Whenever people meet they start singing, out of nowhere like the flashmobs. And at times being an outsider I feel very odd to sit in between and put a smile as if I understand everything.
Places:
Kolkata has got many places for any type of tourists. Maidan, Victoria, Fort William, Indian Archeological Museum, Howrah Bridge, Hoogly, Outram ghat are known some. ‘One should spend a month in the museum, an enchanted palace of Indian antiquities’ writes Twain in his travel journal on Calcutta- this was in 1890s. Now you can imagine the number of things to see in the Museum. Believe me, the English has not taken everything, well, at least the cheaper ones are left behind and you can find them in the Museum. Jokes apart, the museum is very very interesting, even for a history-illiterate like me.
Now some of the not so known places: college street- you can find anything that’s ever been printed in the world so far here. If you are lucky you can find some famous manuscripts as well. Rabindranath Tagore’s family house, called as Takur Badi locally. And Hog Market (also called as New Market), Sealdah railway station – about two lakh people at any given time, and Ochterlony(Shahid Minar) to name some.
Public transport is the cheapest and in my opinion the best in India. Kolkata tramways is the oldest in Asia, and a history in motion. You will also find a lot of old pre-independence buildings.
Events:
One word- PUJO.
People:
People are in general slow and government places even more so – one of the worst in India; some tell the situations are changing, but I don’t know much to comment. But working class people (work meaning real work like pulling rickshaw, building roads, and stuff) are very hard working and sincere – incidents like rickshaw wala refusing to take a rupee extra as a kindness gesture are common. Kolkata girls are sweet. People in general are very kind and helpful.
This city is a fine example of life itself.
Kolkata in One-Line:
In the words of the great bearded one- “Amar shonar Bangla”.
To me- Mamiyar Veedu (kind of proud) – for those who do not understand tamil, translation : Shoshur Badi or Sasural.